Monday, September 22, 2008

Some Things Money Can't Buy

Christmas came early this year. Look at what arrived in the mail from Self Edge and crew.

First up is the one-of-a-kind, custom-made, Self Edge tweed denim jacket. Just in time for the advent of cool weather.

It is made of 14 oz recent deadstock Cone denim woven on antique American-built Draper shuttle looms. I believe only 3 or 4 people in the world still have yardage of this special selvage denim. It contains a weft yarn spun in America with colored nubs. The resulting cloth is a sturdy denim that pays tribute to the Harris Tweed.

The styling and specs are by Kiya Babzani, proprietor of Self Edge.

Constructed by the infallible Al's Attire.

Selvage hanger loop.

Pocket watch chain button hole front.

Pocket watch chain button hole back.

The pocket flaps nod to another classic.

The entire jacket in general and the collar stitching and pocket flaps in particular are inspired by the Flat Head x 092707, which is Kiya's wedding suit (also by Al's Attire).

The other item I received is just as special and unique. It is a beautiful cap handmade by Samuel de Goede, Wild Child designer, Superfuture Supertalk moderator, Mister Freedom model, and by all indications a renaissance man.

The material is a vintage, soft wheat flour bag.

Samuel's alias is Cotton Duck.

The cap is reversible. One section uses a different denim from the rest of the cap. Over time the difference will become more apparent as the two denims fade to contrasting colors.

Phenomenal work guys!

Sorry for the long tease but these pieces are not available anywhere. There are plenty of other superb articles to buy at Self Edge.

Self Edge Website

Saturday, September 20, 2008

Wild Child Wild Tee Thing

Ok, considering my close association to Cone Denim I probably shouldn't do this but I can't resist. Self Edge's Wild Child label took some of the best Black Seed denim from Cone and turned them into t-shirts. That's right, lightweight denim tees made from extra long staple Black Seed cotton. It looks so good.

From Self Edge:

After almost a year of edits and changes we're proud to announce the first release from Wild Child & Company.

The famous denim t-shirt by Wild Child, if you're here reading this, you probably have been following the progress surrounding this release. Almost one year of edits and remakes later, Wild Child delivers the world's first denim t-shirt.

[...] pima cotton White Oak Black Seed Cone Denim with a tan leather hang tag make up this first product release from Wild Child & Co.

Two versions are available, a crewneck version and also a V-Neck Edition by Sidney Lo.

The denim really comes to life and softens up quite a bit with some wear and washing, and will fade and age just like a pair of jeans (and so will the tan leather tag). Due to the weave and shade of the denim, this t-shirt doesn't look as crazy as it sounds once you've worn it.

The shirt's fabric was cut on a bias and therefore the weave of the denim appears diagonally as opposed to vertically, this was done so that the denim would stretch sideways just like a normal t-shirt does.

Self Edge Website

Thursday, September 18, 2008

Takumi Transformed

Every time I meet Takumi Clothing owner Luis Pedroza he is bursting with enthusiasm for his denim line. After several seasons of fine-tuning he delivers what can only be called an artisanal jean.

The new Takumi denim has more texture. It has more interesting yarn slubs and is hairier. While it still has that luxury pliability that gives the wearer assurance they will break in soft it is certainly stiffer than the first Takumi denim. Consider it a compromise between the immediate gratification of comfortable, soft jeans and the security that only armor-stiff denim gives.

But it is perhaps the new construction details that will win over skeptics and let Takumi (artisan in Japanese) earn its name.

A ridge built into the back pocket opening serves as a raised section that will chip off more readily than the surrounding area, creating higher-contrast high/low fades.

I understand the Japanese call this effect "atari."

The inserted beltloops also have this detail.

The one thing I quite dislike is the shiny, ink-black leather patch.

The one detail I love so much is the three waistband stitches. The bottom two stitches are chain stitches. The run off are tucked inside the waistband before closure. You can even see one of them peeking through the button hole.

As usual the indigo print yoke lining and pocketing adds a nice touch.

With such attention to construction the other details like hidden rivets, button flys, and lined back pockets suddenly seem hardly worth mentioning.

Takumi Clothing Website