Wednesday, March 25, 2009

Who is Ande Whall? Part II

Ande Whall is one man who does not need to answer to questions of efficiency and costs associated with factory production. His dedication to giving customers handcrafted products show in the details. The usual construction points denimheads expect are present: hidden back pocket rivets, donut buttons, single needle stitching, hidden selvage on coin pocket with "peek-a-boo" detail, selvage fly, and the newly introduced chainstitched hems.

But there is more to it than meets the eye. My second pair of customized Ande Whall jeans (Raker model) shows some great details.

This jean comes with lined back pockets, which I sorely need.

The special, labor-intensive seams used to put together the back yoke and rise is particularly beautiful. This construction is found on garments from the late 1800's. Ande refers to it as the "late 1800's hand sewn flat felled seam." From inside the jean you will see only one stitch. The outside of the jean will show that two stitches were used. The second stitch is tucked under the felled seam and depending on how the denim shrinks it will cause interesting ridges and valleys inside the seam.

The subtle contrast color threads are very well balanced.

The hidden selvage belt loops were a bonus. There are lavishly extravagant benefits to supplying your own fabric and not caring about the wastage.

Even though I am partial to chainstitches I am particularly enamored with the waistband construction. I am still trying to get a clear understanding of it but it is beautiful.

The denim itself is a 14.75 oz American selvage with a khaki colored weft yarn. Because the denim is not singed it looks particularly hairy.

To get to know a designer through the products he creates is an experience that has become rare to find. Luckily Ande is upholding that tradition.

So what is next Ande Whall? The answer:

Jute twine embedded beltloops? Keep your fingers crossed for beautiful beltloop fades.

Ande Whall Website


Blogger graham said...

I've always wondered, what is the advantage of lined rear pockets?
is it a luxury detail like the selvage coin pocket and whatnot, or does it have an actual practical function?

3/26/2009 02:18:00 PM  
Blogger Henry Wong said...

A lined rear pocket can be quite useful especially if you are too lazy to repair your jeans like me. I often keep change in my back right pocket which naturally creates a hole in the denim. Refer to the first Ande Whall post for a visual example:

3/27/2009 07:05:00 AM  
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