King of Vintage: Heller's Cafe

If you can get your hands on it you should check out Rin Tanaka's new book, "King of Vintage. No. 1: Heller's Cafe." The star of the book is none other than Heller's Cafe, a highly-respected vintage collection, and its owner Larry McKaughan. More than 200 of the rare vintage pieces that Heller's Cafe sells or rents are featured and there is an entire section dedicated to denim from the 1880's to the 1950's. The caliber of the pieces are breathtaking (Levi Strauss overalls made with Stifel cloth, to name one) and with talks of a potential 2nd volume I hope they include more detail shots and even more denim.

When asked how the idea came about McKaughan says, "The project was a combination of Rin and me talking about a book on my company that would feature our pieces in a way that elevated them from what would normally be vintage clothing venue." There is an age-old belief that when you document something on paper (or other media) you immortalize it. I believe this is part of what McKaughan feels. After all many of these priceless pieces, in as good a condition as they are, can be rather fragile and sensitive. He notes, "We didn't really have any problems in the process of making the book. Unfortunately we did have one significant piece damaged in shipping for the exhibition [Inspiration LA]."

Their first printing of a limited 3000 copies to US and Japan has already sold out and they are almost through with the second printing. You can preview a number of pages on Rin Tanaka's website. A quick call to New York's J.Crew Men's Shop on 484 Broadway will tell you that as of today they still sell this book but are running low. Any lover of vintage would not want to miss out on owning this book even though Rin Tanaka will likely feature other vintage dealers.

A final word from McKaughan: "In general, this book turned out great. I think Rin captured the personality of my company. There are a lot of great collectors and dealers in this business and many would make great books but this book is a great representation of my passion, focus and my collection. I am very proud of it."

Heller's Cafe Warehouse Homage Collage

Heller's Cafe and Warehouse have put together a new line of very convincing vintage-inspired workwear pieces. They look and feel like the real deal vintage you may find in the collection of Heller's Cafe minus the smell. Beautiful construction but the emphasis is definitely wash and trims.

The collaboration line marries the exceptional strengths of both parties. Heller's Cafe has one of the strongest vintage workwear collections in the world and owner Larry McKaughan can genuinely be called an expert. Many museum-quality vintage denim and archive-worthy Levi's have passed through his hands but he admits his love is for the beautiful denim piece from an obscure brand few have ever heard of.

That is why I have been eager to see the results of Larry’s efforts with Japan's famously vintage-obsessed Warehouse Company who makes some of the most beautifully sewn jeans in the world.

What follows is a collage of details that show what they did and by the end hopefully explains why they do what they do.


































































Heller's Cafe on Warehouse Website

Warehouse x Heller's Cafe New Old Goods



The good folks at Heller's Cafe sent us some pictures to preview a couple of products from the next season of Warehouse x Heller's Cafe. The hand treatments that create the dirty looks seem quite authentic. These are no doubt faithful reproductions of beat up vintage pieces from the Heller's Cafe archive. The denim on the rivetless waist overalls seems to feature a slub that approximates the rough character of vintage workwear fabric that was sold raw and so hid many beautiful, irregular yarn characters that today we call "defects."
















Is that a lined belt loop I see? More details as I get them. Stay tuned!

To see images of their previous work see my last post on this exciting brand.